Spring is here with new little chicks!

More early sping plantings for your garden!

Rhubarb begins to peek up out of the ground very early on and grows quickly in the cool spring weather. My Mom used to make a killer rhubarb cake every spring. Rhubarb sauce with a little cinnamon and cream on top is delicious. And, there is nothing better than rhubarb strawberry pie.

• Planting: Usually grown from purchased crowns (rhizomes and buds). You can divide existing rhubarb plants (root balls) or even start them from seed, although they might not grow true to color. When growing from seed, it can take 2 years before the plants are large enough to harvest. Any well drained, rich soil. Prefers a slightly alkaline soil - pH of 6.0 to 6.8. Since you’re growing it for the foliage and it has a sort season, you want a soil high in organic matter, to support quick spring growth. Care should be taken when preparing the rhubarb bed, since the plants will be there for quite awhile after.

  Space rhubarb crowns every 3 - 4 feet in rows about 3 feet apart. If planted too closely, the plants will grow smaller and less productive. You can plant in a long trench, much like asparagus, or dig individual holes. Place the crown 2 inches below the surface of the soil. Firm the soil gently and water well.

  Rhubarb likes regular water, although mature plants are quite drought resistant.

  Remove flower stalks as soon as they appear. Flower stalks are rounder, thicker and taller than leaf stalks. If allowed to mature and flower, the leaf stalks will be thinner.

  Rhubarb does not like competition from weeds. A 2-3 inch layer of mulch will suppress weeds as well as help conserve water.

• Harvesting: As with most perennial crops, don’t harvest the first year. Allow the plant to hold onto its leaves and build its strength. A top dressing of manure will keep it going.

  You can take a small harvest the second year. Harvest stalks that are at least 1" thick and leave the rest. During the 3rd year, you can harvest for about 1 month. After the 3rd year, you can harvest whenever there are stalks ready for picking. Plants can remain productive for 8 to 15 years, unless affected by pests or diseases.

  To harvest, cut the stalks at the soil line or pull out individual stalks as needed. You can harvest the whole crop at the same time or harvest in succession over a 4-6 week period. Although the leaves are toxic, they can be used in the compost pile....the oxalic acid will dissipate in the composting process.
  

  As the temperature warms, growth slows and may even go dormant, but will resume in fall as temperatures fall.

• Dividing Rhubarb: To divide rhubarb, dig the root mass and divide the crown between buds or eyes, into pieces about 2" long, with roots attached. You can divide in spring or fall, but it’s easier in spring, when the plant is coming out of dormancy and growing new roots.
• Winter Protection: Rhubarb enjoys needs a period of cold to remain productive. A layer of mulch over the bed, once the ground freezes, will protect the roots from drying out. Otherwise, the plants should be fine on their own.
• Maintenance: Plants will need to be divided or trimmed every 4-5 years. You will notice the stalks getting thinner as the crown becomes overgrown and crowded. When this happens, either divide or Trim the crown to 4-5 buds.

Lettuce the perfect cool spring weather crop!

Lettuce may take a little protection to get it going in the early spring, but, oh, it never tastes better than when it’s grown in the crisp spring air. Cool, wet springs are perfect lettuce growing weather. It won’t bolt and you’ll probably have time for 2-3 succession plantings.

Starting Lettuce

• Lettuce is a cool season crop and consequently is best grown in either spring or fall.
• However, lettuce likes a temperature around 70o to germinate, so early plantings should be started as plugs.
• Lettuce seeds need light to germinate. Just barely cover the seed with soil.
• After a couple of weeks check to see if the roots have branched out to the sides of the plug. If so, they are hardy enough to go in the ground.
• Don’t let the seedlings get too large before placing them out.
  

Care & Feeding of Green Crops

• If you have fertile soil, you shouldn’t need to feed lettuce plants, unless you plant the “cut and come again” varieties all summer. This is one crop where extra nitrogen can’t hurt, since all you want from the plant is leaf.
• Well-rotted manure or compost is ideal.
• The plants will need regular watering, as lettuce tends to have a shallow root system.
• Don’t keep the area damp or use mulch or you will be inviting slugs.
• A lettuce crop is ideal for the intensive gardening method which is getting a lot of attention lately, because it matures rapidly, can be planted quite closely and can be planted in succession if you choose seasonal varieties.
• Lettuce can even be grown in containers or used as a decorative border.
• If your lettuce looks like it’s about to bolt, pull it out of the ground, roots and all, and replant. This shock to its system will slow its growth. Keep well watered.
  

Harvesting

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As soon as the heart has formed the lettuce plant is ready for cutting. Check for firmness by gently pressing down on the top of the heart area with the back of your hand. This is the safest way as squeezing may damage plant tissue and if the plant is not ready to pick some horrible diseases may enter, as discussed above.

If the plant is ready and left in the ground too long (5-7 days) the heart will start to grow upwards - a sure sign it is beginning to bolt. Cut them immediately for use or dig up and compost.

When cutting for use it is best to lift the whole plant, cut off the root and lower leaves, placing them on your compost heap - don`t leave on the bed to attract pests and diseases.

You should now be holding a delicious looking lettuce plant of some variety. This is the end game - after applying your knowledge of how to grow lettuce you can now go and enjoy with pride the very real fruits of your labor, there are not many thrills greater than this.

Asparagus...an early spring cool weather crop!

There aren't many perennial vegetable crops, vegetables you can plant once and harvest for many years to come. Looking forward to the first tender, pencil sized spears of asparagus poking through in the garden is a rite of spring. If you thought you didn’t like asparagus, you haven’t tried it freshly picked. Asparagus is one of the few perennial vegetable crops. The shoots are picked as young spears in the spring. Later in the season the foliage matures into an airy, fern-like cloud which changes to a golden color in the fall. Because asparagus takes up a permanent place in the garden, but can be an attractive plant, many people with space imitations use asparagus as a border or hedge plant.

You can grow asparagus either from seeds or from crowns. Asparagus crowns are really just the base and roots of a one-year old plants. Most people find it easier to grow from crowns, which are readily available in the spring. Unlike many plants, the roots on asparagus crowns can withstand some air exposure and you will usually find them for sale loose. They should still look firm and fresh, not withered or mushy.

When and How to Plant Aspargus

In warmer climates crowns can be planted in the fall. Early spring is the preferred time for cooler climates, about 4 weeks before the last expected frost date. Crowns can handle some frost because they are below ground. Asparagus is usually planted in rows, since you are going to dig trenches to plant them in. Start with a tench that is about a foot deep and 1 ½ feet wide. Working some compost into the bottom of the trench will get your plans off to a good start. Then make small mounds, about 6 inches high, along the bottom of the trench about every 18 inches. Spread the roots of each crown over the mounds and fill in the trench until the crowns are covered with 2-3 inches of soil. As the plants begin to grow, you can gradually fill in the remainder of the trench.

Caring for Tender Seedlings!

Seedling Care and Nurturing:

As your seedling emerges from the soil, most growers breath a big sigh of relief. Close your eyes and you can almost see the plant grow and flourish into it's full beauty, producing an enviable profusion of flowers or vegetables. As you open your eyes, you will immediately begin a new set of worries, over-nurturing the newborn indoors for a short time while the outdoor weather catches up with your dreams.

Thin Seedlings as needed- - Plants in your garden do not like to be crowded. Ditto with your seedlings, who need all the sun and nutrients that they can get.You may want to leave a few extras for a while as mortality rate of seedlings can be high.

Let there be light, and plenty of it- - As soon as the newborn seedling begins to emerge, it seeks light. Your newborn needs as much and as direct a light source as possible. Placing it by a window with a southern exposure is the first step. But this alone may not prove to be enough for the seedling to grow healthy and strong. First, the sun is not up as long in the spring as it is in the summer. Second, there are many rainy spring days with little or no direct sun. You should also acquire an artificial Grow Light and place the seedlings under it on cloudy days and at night.

Let There be Water, in just the right amount- - Provide water to your seedling every couple of days. Do not soak the soil each night. Overly wet soil encourages the development of damping off disease. Let the soil dry out a little on the top, then water thoroughly. Watering from the bottom is preferred. If you have a seed tray, add water to the bottom of the tray . The soil will absorb it through the bottom holes in your container...your container does have holes in the bottom, doesn't it!?!

Feed me, feed me- - The seedling does not need a lot of extra nutrients in it's first few days of life. Your soil starting mix usually comes with a balanced formula of nutrients that the seedlings need. After several days, adding a little liquid fertilizer to the water is helpful, but you do not need to give it full strength.

If the roots begin to come out the bottom of the pot, it is time to plant your seedling outdoors, weather permitting. If it is still too cool, keep the bottom of the tray moist, or put some extra soil in the bottom of the tray. Or, transplant seedlings to a larger pot. Most plants do not like to be root bound.

Guard against Leggy Plants- - Seedlings are leggy when their main stem or stalk grows tall and thin and can hardly support the leaf structure. It is caused by insufficient sunlight and a sheltered environment. Indoors, they do not experience the effect of wind, and do not need to develop structure to defend against it. Most seedlings do not even experience a slight breeze. When transplanted outdoors, "leggy" plants can be damaged or broken by the wind.

Tip: Take your hand,or a couple sheets of newspaper and fan the plants a few times a day. You can even lightly brush the tops of the plants, brushing back and forth in varying directions. You may notice the plants seem to slow down for a period. What they are really doing is building a stronger stem or stalk.

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Let there be no Damping Off Disease:

Those of us who have grown seedling indoors for any number of years know what "Damping Off" disease. This is a white mold that forms in the top of the soil. Damping Off disease flourishes in cold, wet damp weather along with little sunshine. It quickly spreads across the soil and wilts the seedling. Take it's habitat away, and the disease can not survive. Plants on the other hand, love just the opposite conditions. The more you make conditions ideal for your plants, the more likely you will avoid Damping Off Disease and other mold and fungal problems.

If you do experience problems, do not give up hope. Here are some things you can do to minimize or eliminate disease problems:

• First, get the plant in direct sunlight if at all possible.

• Stop watering until the surface is very dry.

• Water only from the bottom.

• Scrape as much of the mold off the soil as possible.

• Stir the top of the soil without disturbing the roots. It will also speed drying.

• Add some soil, although this may or may not produce results.

• Increase room air circulation. You can gently blow air on your plant trays with a small fan.

The total delight of gardening!

Even the wee ones love to be kissed by lady bugs! This is Gracie, my great niece in a photo taken by her Mom Mystie Blankenship who is about to move into a brand new home and build a brand new garden.

Fragrant Garden!

Flower fragrance is food for the soul
As much as aroma is food for the nose, it is also food for the soul. Nothing is as sure to bring a smile to any face as a whiff of the first bloom on a fragrant viburnum or daphne in spring. It is the confirmation of the promise of spring, a sure link to the goodness of the earth, and a vacation, if ever so fleeting, for the senses. There is a luxury in the perfumes of the garden, a luxury that remains enticingly in reach of almost everyone. You will thank yourself nearly 23,000 times a day.

Lavenders

Dianthus

Roses

Korean Spice Virbirnum

Lilacs In our everyday life, the average human draws 23,000 breaths a day. Included in every breath are the scents of our immediate surroundings, relaying a myriad of information. It is in this spirit that we plant our gardens with fragrant plants. The well planned fragrance garden provides a palette of scent....a "buffet" for the nose. In that same spirit, we should not lean solely on the flowers for the fragrance in our garden. The pungence of artemesia or the tang of lemon thyme can be perfect counterpoints for the spicy odor of flowers. Boxwood can not only define the border of the garden; it can be the canvas for a complex painting of aromas. Finally, the garden should not lack fragrance at any time of year. Even our garden chores can provide us with memory provoking scents. In the fall, the scent of burning leaves accompanies our annual clean up, and the smell of apples and pumpkins remind us of Thanksgivings past. In the winter, the smell of cut evergreens defines the Christmas holiday as surely as snow or Santa, and as the season progresses, forced paperwhites or hyacinths can herald the approach of spring.